UG 1965 – A New Design Language

I have been collecting watches since I was a kid. Back then, it wasn’t so much about collecting as it was enjoying different watches. My journey started almost randomly, I suppose, with a Casio AR320 with a barometer (a gift) or a simple black plastic Swatch GB725 with a white dial. However, when I reached secondary school, I left my watch on the bedside table one day and never wore it again—until recently, about 30 years later.

It all came back to me by chance. While attending an auction as a guest (and working there), I noticed a beautiful Longines L40 in pink gold with a seconds subdial. To my surprise, no one bid on it. After the sale, I approached the auctioneer and asked if I could buy it. That moment reignited my passion for collecting, this time much more seriously.

After rekindling my interest, I dove headfirst into the rabbit hole of collecting, eventually discovering Universal Genève. The Polerouter was my entry point—at the time, it was well-known but still accessible. From there, I explored models spanning the 1950s to the 1990s.

Since then, it’s been an avalanche. Each time I delve deeper into their impressive catalog, I uncover more to admire. Among my collection, there is one model I’ve bought repeatedly in various iterations. For me, it’s perfect: ultra-slim, flat, clean, and timeless, with endless potential for dial variations. Its refined details and simple lines epitomize elegance.

To be clear, it’s not the only watch I collect, but it’s a constant in my collection. I’ve come to think of it as the Calatrava of Universal Genève: an unbeatable sweet spot in watch design.

This watch has influenced me so much that I’ve started considering its future. Universal Genève, now under new ownership by Breitling, seems poised for a revival. Many collectors are eagerly anticipating this, but the outcome will depend on both the brand’s decisions and consumer preferences. There’s always the risk of historical designs being compromised to cater to broader tastes—think of date windows added to perfectly symmetrical dials. While I don’t oppose date windows in principle, they don’t suit every design. It will be fascinating to see how Universal Genève navigates these challenges in a modern context.

Feeling compelled to act, I decided to give this model a “second life” before it risked being lost to mass-market redesigns. Over the summer, I re-engineered the design to accommodate the original calibers—1-42, 2-42, or even the late-1970s quartz 1-43—with subtle upgrades. I avoided a one-to-one reproduction, instead striving to preserve the soul and design language while introducing thoughtful modern touches.

The dial became a focal point of the project, as my initial goal was to experiment with it. I explored creating new versions using jewelry techniques I had learned. Universal Genève has always been innovative with their dials, employing a vast range of textures and forms. This model, with its history of dial variations, offered a perfect canvas to develop a new design language. I plan to document this process further, perhaps in a follow-up post akin to “Hokusai – Master for None. Master of All.”

Regarding the case, I envisioned adding a case-back window to showcase the elegant simplicity of the 1-42 movement. This caliber’s attention to surface treatments—particularly before the 1990s—is something I deeply admire. I also considered the tactile experience of handling the watch: the moments when you pick it up in the morning or put it down at night. Those are when you truly appreciate the watch in its entirety.

One feature I loved from the Calatrava was the pavé bezel—a series of concentric rings of small, gleaming pyramids emphasizing the dial’s circumference. However, the bezel on this model is too slender for such embellishments. To preserve its slim, understated profile, I kept the bezel simple. Instead, I applied a refined pavé detail to the case back, enhancing the watch in a way that doesn’t overwhelm its overall design. To emphasize its slenderness, I added a coin-edge profile—a beloved feature that draws me to brands like Breguet.

The result is a watch that maintains the everyday simplicity of its predecessors while incorporating a more intricate, modern dial.

Next chapter: updates on case production and dial testing.